A.: Mowing the grass at the highest setting on your mower is the best, if not at least 3 inches. Each time you mow, not more than 1/3 of the grass should be cut. However, there are exceptions as some warm season grasses, such as Bermuda centipede grows dense at lower mower settings.
A.: Watering lawn should be done deeply but should not be frequented. It’s better to water the lawn at once rather than spreading the activity for a period of several days. The goal for watering the lawn should be 1’ per week.
A: Mulching is better as it returns nutrients to the lawn along with organic matter besides retaining water. Occasionally it may be helpful to bag if you have an annual weed infestation, or the lawn grass is growing faster between mowing cycles.
A: No. Roots growing near the surface cause thatching whereas mulching discourages thatching by augmenting the decomposition process.
A: Low spots can be filled with about a quarter inch layer of topsoil or sand. Gradually fill low spots to avoid suffocating the grass. Alternatively, you can lift the sod with a shovel; fill with topsoil or sand, and replace the sod to level your bumpy lawn.
A: By applying a pre-emergent herbicide (CGM for organic) prior to germination, you can prevent the annual weeds that grow from seed. Pre-emergent herbicide is also available for preventing perennial type broadleaf weeds. You can apply a post-emergent herbicide once the weeds appear or even pull the weeds by hand.
A: Core aeration is preferred to spike aeration as it removes small cores of dirt to facilitate compaction. Spike aeration on the other hand will compress some types of soil and hinder the compaction process. But, spike aeration is helpful for sand type soils.
A: Usually all pre emergents prevent germination of all types of seeds. However Tupersan (a new pre emergent), can be used at the time of seeding to prevent weed seed germination and allowing grass seed germination.